Camino Portuguese 18: Viana do Castelo to A Guarda

19.06.2025 - 19.06.2025
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Thursday, June 19, 2025

Camino Portuguese: Day 18 – Viana do Castelo to A Guarda

My alarm was unnecessary this morning – I woke up on my own at 05:00, shortly before my alarm was due to sound. I had a long day ahead of me and I needed to get an early start to the walk. This was to be my last day walking in Portugal and, in the afternoon, I would finally cross into Spain. The border between the two countries is separated by the Minho River and pilgrims can either take a speedboat across at Caminha, or walk to the nearest bridge (though that adds roughly 30km to the Camino). I was taking the boat and had my reservation set for 14:30, so I needed to reach Caminha before then… which required me to walk nearly 30km this morning.

I set off from Viana do Castelo at 06:00 and decided to take the coastal route. There are two different Camino routes leading out of the city. I thought the coastal one was more appealing because it was flatter and would probably avoid any rocky paths. The city was quiet as I made my way over to the waterfront. Once I reached the beach, I began walking along the familiar wooden boardwalk for a while.

Soon the path became a dirt path, but without any of the terrible rocks, so it was quite easy for walking. I saw more of the small stone towers lining the coastline. I’m not sure if they once served as guard towers or what other purpose they could have served, but they added some unique beauty to the scenery. The only problem with this route was that there were not many places to stop for a break. There were a few small villages that I walked through, where the path once again became a boardwalk, but they were very sleepy hamlets without anywhere to stop.

The Camino had another split at one point, with one route going a roundabout way to the right, and the other sticking to the coastline. Both routes met up again a little further along, so I decided to follow the coastline as it was shorter. This was the most rugged part of the Camino and several times I questioned if I was truly on the right path (my map reassured me that I was though!). The dirt path became very narrow and led through some heavily overgrown areas. It then led up some rocks to reach the top of a small hill, which proved easier to climb up than it appeared. It was a very strange little trail for sure. It eventually ended right at the beach, but it was only a short walk over to reach the boardwalk, where the Camino continued.

Further ahead, I walked through a small wooded area that was very pretty. The weather this morning was cloudy and cool, making the walk so much more enjoyable. Portugal wanted to get in one more stretch of torture before I left though – the path soon changed from dirt to uneven, jagged cobblestones. I had to walk along this hellscape for a very long time and my feet were very sore by the time I finally reached a proper road.

I was making very good time today and, by the time I reached the first true town around 09:45, I had walked 16km already! Many cafes appeared to be closed, but I did find one that was open in a large square. The break was wonderful as I left my feet rest, while I enjoyed my morning coffee. It was a busy town, with a large stone fort along the coast. Once I got back on the Camino, a police office on a bicycle rode up to me and struck up a conversation. He spoke passable English and we had a nice chat. The police ride up and down the coast to patrol.

I continued following the coast north towards the town of Caminha. In the distance I could see the rolling hills of Spain and soon the mouth of the river as well. The coastline in this part of Portugal was nowhere near as nice as the areas further south – gone were the sandy beaches, replaced by jagged rocks. The sun had come out and warmed up the day, but it was still a comfortable temperature.

I reached Caminha at 12:15, giving me plenty of time to have lunch before catching the boat. There was an “American diner” near the dock and I had decided days ago that I would eat there if I had the time. Caminha was full of people today, all celebrating Corpus Christi. The streets were covered with beautiful, colorful pictures made from flower petals and leaves. Thankfully the diner wasn’t busy when I arrived and I was able to spend the next two hours there, eating and doing some work.

At 14:15 I walked to the dock and met the captain of the boat. It was a small speedboat and I was a little surprised that it was so tiny! The rest of the passengers arrived minutes later and we all boarded the boat. The river is very wide and I was happy to take the boat, rather than adding 30km (and another day) to my Camino! I could picture pilgrims from centuries ago taking small wooden ferries across the river as well. There were some old stone fortifications at the mouth of the river, so it was clearly an important, strategic location – definitely a place where ferries would have existed!

The boat ride took about five minutes and, when I stepped off onto the dock, I was in Spain! The yellow Camino arrows were everywhere to be seen as I left the dock. Just as I started climbing up the first steep hill, several booms of thunder came from the clouds overhead. Rain was not on the forecast for today, but I didn’t want to risk getting stuck in a storm. I hurried my pace so I could get to A Guarda as quickly as possible. The Camino led further uphill, winding around before descending down to A Guarda. Just as I reached the beginning of the climb, more thunder boomed and some light rain began to fall. I decided to stick to the main road instead of the Camino, which let me circle around the hill and save some time. As it was, the rain vanished as quickly as it had started and the thunder soon ceased as well.

I reached my hostel for the night in A Guarda at 16:00 (I changed time zones upon entering Spain, moving ahead one hour). This was the first true Albergue of the Camino, with one room full of bunk beds. Each bed had a privacy curtain and a locker, but there was no fan in the room, so I knew it would get warm overnight. I was among the first pilgrims to arrive, so I hurriedly dropped my bags and jumped into the shower. One of the most important things on the Camino is to shower as early as possible upon arriving at one’s hostel – that way you get the hot water before its used up by other pilgrims! I then did some laundry and hung out for the rest of the afternoon.

Dinner tonight was at a restaurant along the main road that I had noticed as I entered town. It advertised a pilgrim breakfast and it was also open late. The menu wasn’t extensive, but it had enough for me this evening. I ordered a bocadillo and patatas bravas – the staples of my Camino Frances! As expected, it was disappointing and lacked much flavor. I had immediate flashbacks to walking the Camino with my friends, each night hoping we’d find a good dinner… and each night being disappointed more and more. How can this country have such bland food?! I know other regions of Spain have incredible food – I’ve been there, I’ve eaten the food – but anywhere along the Camino seems devoid of good food. I am looking forward to having my first slice of Santiago Cake though – hopefully I’ll find some tomorrow!