Camino Portuguese 21: Nigran to Vigo

Sunday, June 22, 2025

Camino Portuguese: Day 21 – Nigran to Vigo

Today I had the latest start to a walk on the Camino – not out of personal choice, but because I was unable to check out of the hotel until 08:00, when the hotel’s café opened. Since the reception is handled by the café staff, I couldn’t return my key or leave my suitcase anywhere until they arrived. I slept in until 07:00 and felt quite rested. I was at the café shortly after it opened and I left my suitcase for the daily transfer. I have been very impressed with the transfer services thus far on the Camino. I’ve used three different ones since there isn’t one single company that serves the entire Lisbon to Santiago route.

I had a coffee at the café, which came with some breakfast tapas (two slivers of cake and a churro). As I finished my coffee, I was surprised to see my Camino friend John walking into the café! I went up and said hello to him and we sat together while he had breakfast. He had also stayed at the hotel last night, which surprised me because he thought he would stop back in Baiona. His right ankle has been bothering him for the past several days, slowing down his walking pace. He was waiting for a pharmacy to open at 09:30 this morning so he could get some ibuprofen. At 08:45 I decided it was time to head out and I said goodbye to John, but we both knew that we’d see each other again along the Camino.

Since the hotel was off of the main Camino route, I had to follow along the city streets until I finally reconnected with the yellow-arrowed pathway. Today was the last true coastal day before heading inland and north to Santiago, so I wanted to talk advantage of it and enjoy the sea views as much as possible. The early part of the morning wound through some small neighborhoods between stretches along the beach. At one point the Camino literally had me walk along the beach itself – not easy to do while carrying a heavy backpack.

Soon I reached a very busy beach area that stretched on for several kilometers. The entire way from Baiona through to Viga appeared to be a never-ending cityscape nestled along the coast. This area had a lot of restaurants, cafes, and nice sandy beaches. I picked a café at random and sat down to have a Pepsi while I enjoyed a short break. I then had lunch nearby before pushing on towards Vigo.

The last 90 minutes of the walk today were not very pleasant. The beach area was crowded with people, though there was a lot of shade along a good part of the area. It did not last long and soon I was in an industrial area of Vigo. The long walk along the street seem to last for ages – it was hot, I was tired, and it wasn’t a pretty area to be walking. It wasn’t rundown or sketchy, but it was just bland and dull.

When I arrived at the hostel at 13:30, I was disappointed to discover that I couldn’t check in for another 90 minutes. Another pilgrim was waiting as well and we decided to get a drink at a bar nearby to pass the time. Her name was Julie and she is from South Africa, but she lives in Dubai now. I drank two Radlers at the bar, which were so refreshing after the long, hot day.

At 15:00 we returned to the hostel and were the first people to check in this afternoon. The dorm room is very spacious, each bed had a privacy curtain, and the bathrooms were huge! I was the first person in to take a shower and then I spent the afternoon lounging at the hostel. Julie went out to have seafood dinner, and I didn’t join her since I don’t eat seafood. Instead, I went and had a burger and then ice cream for dessert.

As I was walking back to the hostel, the bells at a large church nearby began ringing. The narrow streets echoed the bells, amplifying the sound considerably. I ran into Julie in the dorm room and she said the bells would ring periodically until 22:00 due to some ceremony this evening. I have a short day tomorrow and I wasn’t worried about getting to bed super early this evening, so the bells wouldn’t disturb me.

I spent the rest of the evening blogging, enjoying a nice cut of tea, and just relaxing. There are only five days left on the Camino and I am very excited to get it done! Tomorrow the influx of 100km pilgrims would be starting out, which is something I have been dreading. I remember all to well when the Saria pilgrims joined the Camino Frances and how it totally transformed (and ruined) the overall vibe of the Camino. Though, considering how disappointing the Portuguese Camino has been thus far, I can’t see how the 100km-ers could make it worse. I shall find out tomorrow!!

Distance Walked: 20.53 km
Steps Walked: 27,242

Total Distance: 574.49 km
Total Steps: 764,402