Camino Portuguese 04: Santarem to Golega

05.06.2025 - 05.06.2025
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Thursday, June 5, 2025

Camino Portuguese: Day 04 – Santarem to Golega

Today I set out on my own – no more Alan! I woke up at 04:45, but I was a bit slow getting everything together and I didn’t end up leaving the hotel until 45 minutes later. The walk today was another 32km-long trek and I wanted to get an early start to the day.

The route leading out of Santarem and back down the hill was not very pleasant. After following the main streets out of the town itself, the route took a turn down an extremely overgrown stone pathway leading down the hill. I had to get out my head torch so I could see where I was walking. The pathway was uneven and slippery at various parts. At first I was uncertain if this was truly the correct route, but I checked my map and it was indeed the Camino. A feeling of relief came over me as I reached the bottom of the hill.

The first segment of the day’s walk lasted for roughly 12km and took me through several vineyards. Sunrise today was very pretty, especially since there were no clouds to get in the way. I knew the lack of clouds meant that it would be a hot day once the sun was high in the sky. I put in my headphones and listened to podcasts as I walked, which helped keep my main occupied.

I had preplanned my rest stops for today so I could rest every 10km or so. By the time I reached the first of the stops, I was getting tired and in need of a short break. The café I stopped at was the nicest one of the Camino thus far and the woman behind the bar was very friendly. They had an English menu for pilgrims too! I ordered a ham and cheese sandwich, along with a coffee and iced tea. It was all very good and gave me the energy I needed to continue along the Camino.

When I left the café I somehow missed the directional arrows and walked in the wrong direction until I was near the edge of the village. Happily I didn’t need to backtrack to reach the Camino – I was able to follow a small street over to where it met with the official route. The next stretch was along a dirt and rocky path (though nowhere near as rocky as yesterday). Certain segments were in a bad state and my pace was slowed slightly as I navigated around large ditches and puddles. It appeared as though a large tractor had driven through the area, leaving huge ditches where the tires had been, making me walk along a narrow mound of dirt. The best part of this area was that there was ample shade provided by huge trees!

Sadly the tree cover was not to last for long and I was soon back amongst the farmland and vineyards. The path took me right next to a large farmhouse and a small dog came running out, barking at me. He ran circles around me as I continued walking, and it continued for quite some time after I had left the farmhouse behind me. It was not a very pleasant experience.

My second rest stop of the day ended up being a bit further away than I originally expected, but I reached it shortly after 11:00 (still on the rough schedule I’d set for myself). The café had a nice outdoor patio where several older men were animatedly chatting. I got a large bottle of water as well as a cold iced tea to enjoy while I relaxed. I needed the replenishment of water as I had been drinking quite a bit today.

The final segment today was about 8km long and followed along a major roadway. I was slightly uneasy while walking on the shoulder of the road, but the drivers were all very considerate and moved aside as they passed me. I could see the small town of Golega in the distance and I became more and more eager to finally arrive. The last few kilometers seemed to stretch on forever!

By the time I reached Golega, I was exhausted and my feet were very sore – though happily not as worn out as yesterday! I hobbled my way into town and stopped at a small café to have a cold drink before continuing on to my hotel for the night. Golega is a quite community and there was not much going on from what I could tell as I walked the streets. My hotel was near the opposite side of town from the café, but it took me only ten minutes to arrive.

The hotel is a converted apartment building and I was able to let myself in using the code the owner had provided. My room was large and comfortable – the first one on the Camino with a desk! I tried to get the air conditioner to turn on, but I couldn’t figure out how to make it work (I tried every possible button on the remote). The shower was alright, though the water didn’t get very warm. Nevertheless, I felt refreshed after my shower. I then took advantage of the in-house laundry facilities to wash my (very) dirty clothes (the smell of which hit me when I walked back into my room after the shower).

For dinner tonight, I went to a local restaurant just down the street from the hotel. The owners/staff were very welcoming and friendly. They didn’t speak English and I know zero Portuguese, but we were able to find ways to communicate. I had pork with egg, rice, sweet potato fries, and a salad. It was delicious and filling! I had a large beer to drink with my dinner as well. When I finished my meal, one of the owners brought out a short glass of some alcoholic drink and said it was on the house. It was strong and slightly sweet – the perfect way to end my dinner!